The Metal Panel Screws for a Shed or Run-in calculator computes the total number of metal panels screws for the roof and siding based on the ridge length of the roof, the front and back heights, the width (span) of the building and the front and back overhangs.
INSTRUCTIONS: Choose units and enter the following:
Metal Panel Screws for Shed or Run-in (nS): The calculator returns the number of screws.
Metal Panel Screws are a specialized product that include a gasket to seal around the screw head and prevent moisture from penetrating the roof or siding through the screw hole, and a screw tip that cuts through the metal panels and is self-starting. Metal panel screws often come in painted colors to match the metal panels. The screws are used to attach metal panels to purlins or sheathing for a metal roof or to girts or sheathing for metal siding. Metal Panel Screws are typically used with a density of 75 screws per 100 square feet of metal roofing or siding area.
The current price of Screws for a Metal Roof is included in the C-Lok, Ag Panel, G-Rib price survey which includes the following:
This is for an open-faced (three sided) shed or run-in (see picture). The metal panels for a Shed or Run-in calculator is meant to help with material estimates for a metal roof and siding. Metal roofs and side walls are often connected to purlins. CLICK HERE to estimated the purlins needed for a shed or run-in.
The length of the roof panels are equal to:
`RP = sqrt( (W+FH+BH)^2 + (FH-BH)^2)`
This calculator uses a standard panel width of 36" of coverage. Therefor the roof panels are RP long. The number of roof panels is the length (L) divided by 36" and rounded up.
The height of the side panels is the greater of Back Height and Front Height. And the number of side wall panels is the width (W) divided by 36" and rounded up, and then multiplied by 2 for the two sides. The height of the back panels is the back height. The number of back panels is the length (L) divided by 36" and rounded up.
When we built this run-in, we used 4x4 posts that were 12' long in the front and 10' long in the back. Several days before any framing, we dug the holes for the posts and made them as level (vertically and horizontally) as possible. We dug below the frost line (18" where we live), put down some loose gravel, and then encased the base of the posts in concrete. We let that stand for a few days to ensure that framing wouldn't move the vertical posts. Then we put the purlins on the back and sides. And then the diagonal boards This stiffened the frame an also gave us a nice set of boards (purlins) to act as ladders up to the beams and rafters. We then put in the beams, rafters and face plates. The last framing was the purlins on the roof. After that, we were able to quickly cut and place the metal panel on the roof (that's my beautiful daughter on the roof), and then the three sides.
The horse love it.
This run-in has been up for over a year now. The horses still love it and better yet, it keeps them healthy. We faced it east, so that they were able to get out of the driving westerly wind. We also placed it where it was a slight grade so that no water would be standing where the horses would loiter.
In all cases, confirm your estimates with a professional estimate and adhering to local building codes.
angle of incline in the roof in both degrees and rise over 12" run (e.g. 26.6o : 6/12) based on the length of the rise and run.
Roofing Geometry Calculators